The quarters are close — 20 or so seats — but intimacy is The purpose, when you shuffle in and find yourself nearly encounter-to-experience with Bo Porytko as he diligently functions the stove. The food is hearty — as you could anticipate from a chef cooking in the tradition of his Ukrainian grandmother — but it is accented by professional

The chef Jose Avila is something of the serial specialist. Formerly heading up Machete Tequila + Tacos, he then turned recognized for his El Borrego Negro pop-ups, where he grilled an entire sheep on Sundays. Below, he is dealing with the signature hominy soup of his native Mexico. The pozole negro, specifically, is really a formidable sight — lo

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